Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Tuna Corn Rice


At Tokyo Station recently we grabbed some inarizushi from the basement GranSta food floor area. Inarizushi are deep-fried tofu packets that are simmered in a sweet soy broth and then stuffed with rice. Sometimes the rice is plain, white rice. But often it is seasoned with sesame seeds, minced pickled ginger, or, on this occasion, corn, tuna, and mayonnaise.

We loved this so much we've started making it at home, without the sweet tofu packets. What's not to love, especially now that corn is in season. In a bowl combine cooked rice, cooked corn, canned tuna, and mayonnaise and combine. It also goes well with nori, so feel free to wrap these up into mini hand rolls.

Sunday, August 18, 2013

Umeboshi and Chicken Summer Soba


In the heat of the summer we find ourselves craving tart and sour foods as they are refreshing. Cold noodles are also a staple this time of year. Soba and somen noodles are often served with a soy sauce dipping sauce called tsuyu. This recipe was on NHK recently and it looked so good we made it the next day.

This chilled soba recipe is a one dish meal. Ground chicken is sautéed and set aside to cool. Cucumbers are sliced thin, sprinkled with salt and after resting for a few minutes squeezes of its excess water. Aromatic myōga are sliced thin. Combine the cooked chicken, cucumbers, and myōga in a bowl and season with some neriumé (uméboshi paste). Top the mixture over cold soba noodles and add a small amount of tsuyu.

It's a nice change-up to the simple version of soba. The meaty and crunchy vegetables are a nice contrast and it's all brought together with puckering tart uméboshi.

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Onion Salad with Katsuobushi


Tonight we made some salads to go with a yakiniku menu. Here is a salad of thinly sliced onions with sesame oil, soy sauce, and katsuobushi. It was a big hit in our home. But, there is a special tip in prepping the onions...


This sliced cabbage is dressed with a carrot-ginger vinaigrette. If you've eaten at any teppanyaki restaurants in America you've probably had a salad dressing like this. Everyone loves it but no one can figure out how to make it at home. Which is why you need to get this book. And, to also figure out how to soften the flavor of the onions for the salad.


The Japanese Grill is a great book by chef Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat. As it is summer time and barbecues are out and in heavy use, it's a good time to pull this book off the shelf or pick up a copy for yourself. I first reviewed it for Metropolis magazine. The review also includes a recipe for Whole Grilled Japanese Eggplant with Lemon and Soy Sauce. It's a great book that you'll use for years. Filled with beautiful photos and mouth-watering recipes.

Here is the review:
Japanese cuisine is rich with foods cooked over fire: yakitori, robatayaki, kushiyaki, and other things that end with “yaki.” Now, this new offering from Chef Tadashi Ono and co-author Harris Salat is promising to be somewhat of a handbook for those keen on grilling at home.
The book opens with basic Japanese ingredients and grilling essentials. Mastering the heat can make the difference between bland and brilliant food, and the principles are spelled out with photos. There are also helpful tips on skewering, which is much harder than you might imagine.
What makes this book is the simplicity of the recipes. There is a handful of master recipes for marinades, dipping sauces, and dressings that can be kept in the fridge for a long time. The yuzu kosho marinade is a unique one that we love both for saba (mackerel) and hotate (scallops). The wafu salad dressing and citrusy ponzu are now staples in our fridge.
Classic recipes will have you curing seafood in miso, salt, or sakekasu (sake lees, or sediment). The himono “half-dry” fish technique is surprisingly easy to master. Grilling himono at home, paired with sake, is so good that your neighborhood izakaya’s business will start to suffer.
Some of our favorite recipes so far are the squid with ginger-soy sauce, crispy chicken wings with seven-spice powder, sansho-rubbed butterflied chicken legs, and asparagus with miso-mayonnaise dipping sauce. Japanese burgers with wasabi-ketchup are a nice change-up on the typical burger, made softer with breadcrumbs and milk.
The chapter “Perfect Side Dishes” includes several vegetable dishes so appealing that we have been cooking them repeatedly. In particular, we like the lip-smacking green cabbage salad with carrot-ginger vinaigrette and the crunchy arugula-jako salad with soy-sauce vinaigrette. Cooking vegetables in foil is a great technique and made better when a ponzu butter is added.
We tested many of the recipes at home on our indoor fish grill without a hitch. Some dishes are also made in a sauté pan or in the oven, so it can be a year-round cookbook.
Ono and Salat had great success with their first book, Japanese Hot Pots: Comforting One-Pot Meals. Their next book, Japan Soul, is “a cookbook and travelogue that will introduce authentic Japanese comfort food and the dining culture of the old-school ‘downtown’ neighborhoods of Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka, and other cities” says Salat.
The Japanese Grill: From Classic Yakitori to Steak, Seafood, and Vegetables (Ten Speed Press, 2011, pp.184), ¥2,108 from major bookstores and Amazon.jp.




Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Mentaiko Toast


Mentaiko, spicy roe of cod or pollack, is rich in umami. Whenever I visit a bakery the first type of bread that I look for is any bread with mentaiko. Usually it is a petit baguette that is sliced in half and schmeared with a mixture of mentaiko, butter, and garlic that is simply toasted lightly.

Recreating it at home is a breeze. In a bowl combine some mentaiko removed from its sac, butter, and minced garlic. Spread on thick slices of bread and toast. This is nice with some saké or with some sweet potato shochu.

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Mentaiko Pasta


One of my guilty pleasures? Mentaiko. Roe from cod or pollack salted and marinated in a chili spice. Simply as it is or grilled and served with rice. It's nice spread on garlic toast, or one of our favorites, mentaiko pasta.

I love angel hair pasta for this dish. While the water is coming to a boil scrape the mentaiko out of its sac. Cook the angel hair pasta until al dente.

Put the pasta in a bowl, add the mentaiko and some mayonnaise and butter. Stir until combined and serve immediately.

If you are looking for a healthful version, use extra virgin olive oil instead of the mayonnaise and butter.




Tuesday, August 6, 2013

August Seasonal Japanese Seafood 8月旬の魚


katsuo
Katsuo tataki
Image
Katsuo sashimi topped with myoga, shiso, and garlic
Den17
Katsuo as done by chef Zaiyu Hasegawa at Den

Look for seafood from this list when eating out in Japan or in the supermarkets or at your fishmonger. Most of the seafood listed here you can enjoy as sushi or sashimi. At home we like to have tachiuo as sashimi with a bit of sesame oil and sea salt. Ayu is best salted and grilled. And while we don't cook hamo at home we look forward to having it out at restaurants, especially with a bainiku (umeboshi) dressing. At home we often have katsuo topped with lots of yakumi like shiso, myōga, and garlic then dress it with a soy sauce and sesame oil dressing. Katsuo can be bought raw or seared on the outside as tataki).

Ayu 鮎  sweetfish (Plecoglossus altivelis altivelis)
Dojou 泥鰌 loach (Misgurnus Anguillicaudatus)
Hamo   pike eel or pike conger (Muraenesox cinereus)
Hiramasa 平政 yellowtail amberjack (Seriola lalandi)
Hoya  ほや sea squirt(Halocynthia roretzi)
Inada 鰍 young amberjack (or yellowtail) (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Stages of buri: wakashi, inada, warasa, buri
Indo maguro Southern Bluefin tuna 
Isaki 伊佐幾 chicken grunt (Parapristipoma trilineatum)
Kanpachi  間八 amberjack or yellowtail (Seriola dumerili)
Katsuo 鰹 skipjack tuna (or bonito) (Katsuwonus pelamis)
Kensaki ika 剣先烏賊 swordtip squid (Loligo edulis)
Kihada maguro 黄肌鮪 yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares)
Kisu 鱚 Japanese whiting (Sillago japonica)*or shirogisu
Kochi 鯒 bartail flathead (Platycephalus)
Koyari ika 小槍烏賊  baby spear squid (Loligo bleekeri)
Kuruma-ebi 車海老 Japanese tiger prawn (Penaeus (Melicertus) japonicus)
Ma-aji 真鯵 Japanese jack mackerel (Trachurus japonicus)
Ma-anago 真穴子 whitespotted conger (saltwater eel) (Conger myriaster)
Ma-iwashi 真鰯  Japanese sardine (Sardinops melanostictus)
Managatsuo 真名鰹 silver pomfret (Pampus punctatissimus)
Ma-tako 真蛸  common octopus (Octopus vulgaris)
Nijimasu 虹鱒 rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss)
Shiira  しいら 鱪 dorado or mahi-mahi (Coryphaena hippurus)
Shima aji  島鯵 striped jack or white trevally (Pseudocaranx dentex)
Shinko (Konoshiro) 鰶 dotted gizzard shad (Konosirus punctatus)
Surumei ika するめいか Japanese common squid (Todarodes pacificus)
Suzuki すずき 鱸 Japanese sea bass (Lateolabrax japonicus)
Tachiuo 太刀魚  cutlassfish (Trichiurus lepturus)
Takabe たかべ yellow-striped butterfish (Labracoglossa argentiventris)
Unagi 鰻 Japanese freshwater eel  (Anguilla japonica)