Thursday, May 2, 2013

Nama Shirasu Donburi 生白す丼

Nama Shirasu Donburi

Shirasu are baby sardines that most often come to market after being blanched in salt water. This time of year we sometimes find it raw, as nama shirasu. These are a bit intense in flavor and have a somewhat slippery texture. It comes with a small packet of ground ginger that we garnish it with. The ginger helps to balance the rich flavor. Just drizzle with soy sauce and it becomes the main dish for lunch when served with some miso soup and some side dishes.


Here is what it looks like at the market. It says on the label sashimiyō so we know that it can be eaten raw. The pack is 380 JPY and serves two.

Enoshima, a popular beach resort area south of Tokyo, is famous for its nama shirasu. Here are photos from a meal we had in Enoshima that featured shirasu tempura and nama shirasu donburi.

sashimiyō 刺身用 can be eaten raw
shirasu 白す baby sardines
nama  raw or uncooked

Kinoko Mushroom Soba きのこそば



The earthy buckwheat soba noodles are our favorite. It often becomes a last minute lunch meal as there is always dried soba noodles in the pantry as well as a bottle of men tsuyu concentrate. In this simple recipe mushrooms are simply cut into bite-size pieces and blanched in hot water and then put onto the soba. The earthy mushrooms are a perfect partner for the noodles.


Kinoko (Mushroom) Soba
Serves 4

½ cup shiméjimushrooms
½ cup shiitakémushrooms
½ cup maitakémushrooms
½ cup namékomushrooms

4 bunches of dried soba
bottled men tsuyu 麺つゆ orめんつゆ

shichimi (seven spice), optional

Heat up a very large pot of water for boiling the soba. Heat up a second large pot of water to cook the mushrooms.

Place the namékomushrooms in a bowl. Cut off the stems of the shiitaké mushrooms and cut the cap into thin slices. Cut the base of the shiméji mushrooms and break into individual pieces. Cut the base of the maitakémushrooms and break into smaller pieces. Put all of the mushrooms in a bowl.

Quickly blanch the mushrooms in hot water and set aside.

In a pot prepare the soba broth according to the directions on the tsuyu bottle.

In the very large pot of boiling water cook the soba according to the packet, usually about 4 minutes. Be careful not to let the pot boil over. Add cold water if needed to prevent them from boiling over. After it is cooked strain. Put the noodles in a soba bowl, top with the hot soba broth and the cooked mushrooms. Garnish with shichimi (seven spice).


Wednesday, May 1, 2013

May Seasonal Japanese Seafood


katsuo tataki
The cold waters still bring fish rich with fat that shines in sashimi or is nice for grilling. Asari clams are great for making into a quick vongole style pasta. And perhaps my favorite this time of year is katsuo simply seared on the edges, sliced thickly, and served with some soy sauce and garlic. This time of year, the katsuo is referred to as "hatsu-gatsuo". Katsuo actually is in season two times a year. This is the first time we see it, hence the name "first katsuo" in Japanese. The meat in the spring is very rich and intense in flavor and is lean without any fat which makes it refreshing. Katsuo tataki is particularly nice if you can garnish it with fresh myoga and dress it with a citrusy ponzu sauce.
Hotate we like as sashimi or cooked meuniere style. Takikomigohan of scallops is also a nice change-up. Mebaru is a light, white fish that is nice as himono. Don’t throw away the head of tai as it is lovely when salted and grilled. Shinji also likes to keep the bones of tai after he has filleted the fish to make a broth. Simply make some kombu dashi, add the bones and simmer for about ten minutes. A delicate broth, but rich with the umami from the fish bones and kombu.
Iwashi (sardines) and isaki (threeline grunt) are just starting to become rich with fat as we approach the rainy season.
Ainame  鮎魚女  Fat greenling (Hexagrammos otakii
Akagai 赤貝   Ark shell (Scapharca broughtonii) 
Aoyagi   青柳   Surf clam (Mactra chinensis) 
Asari  浅利   Japanese littleneck clam (Ruditapes philippinarum)
Ayu      Ayu or sweet fish ( Plecoglossus altivelis)
Chidai   血鯛   Crimson sea bream (Evynnis japonica)
Ginzake 銀鮭   Silver (Coho) salmon (Oncorhynchus kisutsh )
Hiramasa 平政 Giant amberjack (Seriola lalandi)
Hotate 帆立貝   Scallop  (Patinopecten yessoensis)
Hoya  ホヤ   Sea squirt (Ascidiacea) 
Minami maguro 南鮪 Southern bluefin tuna (Thunnus maccoyii) 
Isaki 伊佐木 Threeline grunt (Parapristipoma trilineatum )
Ishigarei 石鰈 Stone flounder (Kareius bicoloratus)
Katsuo      Skipjack tuna or oceanic bonito (Katsuwonus pelamis)
Karauni   殻雲丹   Sea urchin (Anthocidaris crassispina)
Kinki 黄血魚   Thornhead (Sebastolobus macrochir)
Kinmedai 金目鯛   Splendid alfonsino (Beryx splendens)
Kihada maguro  黄肌鮪   Yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares) 
Kisu キス Sillago (Sillago japonica)
Kurodai 黒鯛   Japanese black porgy (Acanthopagrus schlegelii)
Okoze 虎魚   Scorpion fish (Lnimicus japonicus(Cuvier))
Maaji  真鯵   Horse mackerel (Trachurus japonicas)
Maanago 真穴子 Conger eel (Conger myriaster  )
Madai  真鯛   Red sea bream (Pagurus major)
Maiwashi 真鰯 Sardine (Sardinops melanostictus)
Mirugai  海松食   geoduck (Tresus keenae)
Mebaru 目張   rockfish (Sebastes inermis)
Makogarei   真子かれい   Marbled flounder (Pleuronectes yokohamae Gunther)
Mongōika もんごういか   Kisslip cuttlefish (Sepia lycidas) 
Sakura ebi  桜蝦    Sakura shrimp (Sergia lucens)
Sawara      Japanese Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus niphonius)
Sazae   栄螺   Turban shell (Turbo cornutus)
Shirauo 白魚   Whitefish or ice goby (Salangichthys microdon)
Shira ebi 白海老   Glass shrimp (Pasiphaea japonica)
Sumiika   墨烏賊   Cuttlefish (Sepia (Platysepia  esculenta Hoyle)
Tairagai   平貝   Pen shell (Atrina (Servatrina) pectinata)
Tachiuo   太刀魚   Belt fish or Largehead hairtail (Trichiurus lepturus Temminck&Schlegel)
Tokisake   時鮭   Young chum salmon (Oncorhynchus keta)
Tsubugai   螺貝   Whelk (Buccinum undatum)
Shako   蝦蛄   Mantis shrimp (Oratosquilla oratoria)
Shiro ika 白烏賊 Swordtip squid (Photololigo edulis)
Torigai   鳥貝   Cockle (Fulvia mutica)