Monday, December 31, 2012

January Seasonal Japanese Seafood 一月旬の魚


Saké Steamed Asari Clams

The seafood in winter is rich with fat as the fish protects itself from the cold waters. Some sashimi eaten this time of year will be a bit oily as a result. As always, we love to have most seafood as sashimi when possible, like buri, sawara, hirame and hotate. Shinji in particular has a soft spot for kanburi or winter buri from Himi port in Toyama. He loves it as sashimi but it is also good as teriyakior in the classic dish buri daikon – simmered with daikon in a slightly sweet soy broth. Kinmedai is also lovely when simmered in a soy broth as nitsuke.

Shijimi, little tiny clams, are ideal in miso soup. Asari can be steamed in saké or served with pasta as vongolé. And, of course, if you can get your hands on any of the crab this time of year, indulge!

Aozakana, literally blue fish, are the fishy fish in the mackerel family like sabaand sawara. Sawara can be marinated in a sweet Saikyo miso and grilled, the miso helps to cover some of the intense fish flavor. Saba is nice simmered in miso in a traditional dish preparation called misoni. Shime saba is the term for sabathat has been marinated in a sweet rice vinegar, essentially pickling it. Finally, each January we usually have ankou nabe, a hot pot of monkfish. We save the liver to prepare it as ankimo, often called “foie gras of the sea”. It is simple to prepare, see the recipe here.


Hokkaido Magaki Oyster

Akagai 赤貝 ark shell (Scapharca broughtonii)
Akagarei  赤鰈flathead flounder (Hippoglossoides dubius)
Amadai  赤甘鯛tilefish (Branchiostegus japonicus)
Ankou 鮟鱇 monkfish (Lophiomus setigerus)
Asari  浅利littleneck clams (Ruditapes philippinarum)
Benizuwaigani  楚蟹  red snow crab   (Chionoecetes japonicus)
Wild Hokkaido Buri Sashimi
BuriJapanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Buri 101 - Everything you need to know about yellowtail
Chidai  血鯛  crimson sea bream (Evynnis japonica)
Hamaguri  浜栗  common Orient clam  (Meretrix lusoria)
Hirame olive flounder (Paralichthys olivaceus)
Hira suzuki  平鱸 blackfin Japanese seabass (Lateolabrax latus)
Houbou gurnard (Chelidonichthys spinosus)
Hokke 𩸽arabesque greenling (Pleurogrammus azonus)
Honmaguro 本鮪 bluefin tuna (Thunus thynnus)
Maguro 101 - Everything you need to know about tuna
Hoshigarei  星鰈  spotted halibut (Verasper variegatus)
Hotate 帆立貝 scallops (Patinopecten yessoensis)
Itoyoridai 糸縒鯛 golden threadfin-bream (Nemipterus virgatus)
Kaki 牡蠣 oyster (Crassostrea gigas)
Kanburi 寒鰤 winter Japanese amberjack (see buri) (Seriola quinqueradiata)
* The port of Himi in Toyama is famous for its kanburi. 
Kinmedai金目(sometimes called kinme) splendid alfonsino(Beryx splendens)
Maaji 真鯵 Japanese jack mackerel (Trachurus japonicus)
Madai or tai 真鯛seabream (Pagurus major)
Madara or tara真鱈 Pacific cod (Gadus macrocephalus)
Maiwashi 真鰯 Japanese sardine (Sardinops melanostictus)
Matsuba gani 松葉蟹 spiny crab (Hypothalassia armata)
Matsukawa  松皮鰈  barfin flounder (Verasper moseri)
Mekajiki  女旗魚  swordfish (Xiphias gladias)
Oma honmaguro 大間鮪bluefin tuna from Oma in Aomori (see honmaguro)
SabaPacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)
Sawara Japanese Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus niphonius)
Shijimi 大和蜆 corbicula clams (Corbicula japonica)
Soudagatsuo 騒多鰹frigate mackerel (Auxis thazard)
Surumeika 鯣烏賊 Japanese flying squid (Todarodes pacificus)
Tairagai 平貝 pen shell or fan shell (Atrina (Servatrina) pectinata)
Tarabagani鱈場蟹Alaska king crab (Paralithodes camtschaticus)
Tsubugaiつぶ貝whelk  (Buccinum undatum)
Yanagi dako 柳蛸 chestnut octopus (Octopus conispadiceus)
Yari ika 槍烏賊 spear squid (Loligo (Heterololigo) bleekeri)

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Maguro Tuna 101


Today's post is by Shinji - a Japanese fishmonger.



tuna and avocado

Tuna is a popular seafood for sushi around the world. In Japan there are five species of tuna that is sold that is sashimi-quality. Sashimi-quality means that it can be eaten raw. The pack will say "sashimi you" 刺身用 on it in Japanese. If it needs to be cooked it will say "kannetsu you" 感熱用.

#1 Yellowfin tuna (きはだまぐろ, Kihada maguro, Thunnus albacares)
Frozen wild from Taiwan or the Pacific Ocean
You find frozen tuna with the sign of ‘キハダマグロ’(kihada maguro, yellowfin) ‘解凍’(kaito, defrosted) ‘天然’(tennen, wild) on the package. This is the most common type of tuna sold on sale in the supermarket in Japan.
Fresh wild from local
The season in Japan is in Spring, from the middle of March to May. You can enjoy it fresh with a hint of refreshing acidity.

#2 Bigeye tuna (ばちまぐろ, bachi maguro, Thunnus obesus) is also often sold at the supermarket. It is similar to yellowfin tuna, but the color of the meat is redder and it has a richer flavor. It is bigger than yellowfin tuna. If the size of the bachi maguro is big it is sold as ‘大ばち'(oobachi, big size) on the package, it will have a nice amount of fat in the meat. Oobachi maguro is sold as thee types: ‘赤身' (akami, lean meat),中トロ(chutoro, medium fatty tuna), and 大トロ(ootoro, fatty tuna from the belly). A lot of fish is harvested all year round in the world, super-frozen on the boat, or air shipped to Japan. There is enough supply so it is not farmed.
Frozen wild from Taiwan or the Pacific Ocean
You can find the sign of ‘バチマグロ’ (bachi maguro, bigeye) ‘解凍’ (kaito, defrosted) ‘天然’ (Tennenn, wild) on the package. It is available all year long.
Fresh wild from local or the Pacific Ocean
The season in Japan is from May to July. You can find the sign of ‘’(nama, fresh), ‘' (shun, season) or 'バチマグロ’ (bachi maguro, bigeye) on the package.


#3 Northern Bluefin tuna, (本マグロ, hon maguro, Thunus thynnus) is an expensive tuna, usually farmed in Japan or in the Mediterranean Sea. It is regarded as the king of tuna, very fatty and it is sold as chutoro (fatty tuna), or ootoro (fatty belly tuna). Wild tuna is very rare and extremely expensive and you can get it only at fish markets like Tsukiji Market, or you can try at some top notch sushi restaurants.
Frozen farmed from Mediterranean Sea
It is available all year long. It is distributed as super-frozen tuna (-60) and be sold after half defrosted at supermarkets. You can find the tuna when you see the sign of ‘本マグロ’ (hon maguro, northern bluefin tuna) ’解凍’ (kaito, defrosted) and ’養殖’ (Youshoku, farmed) on the package of tuna. You have choices of ‘赤身’ (akami, red lean meat), ‘中トロ’ (chuoro, red and pink gradational meat), and '大トロ’ (ootoro, white pinkish meat from belly).
Fresh farmed from Kyushu in Japan
It is available all year long. It is distributed as a whole or loin and cut into sashimi portion in the supermarket. It is more flavorful and has a better texture than frozen tuna. You can find the tuna when you see the sign of ‘本マグロ’ (hon maguro, northern bluefin tuna), ‘’ (nama, fresh) and ‘養殖’ (youshoku, farmed) on the package of tuna. You have choices of ‘赤身’ (akami, red lean meat), ‘中トロ’ (chutoro, red and pink gradational meat), and '大トロ’ (ootoro, white pinkish meat from belly).
Fresh wild from all over the world
Wild northern bluefin tuna is very limited, and you will find it only at some top notch sushi restaurants. The price completely follows to the market auction price. The tuna from Ohma ‘大間’ in Aomori prefecture is regarded as the best bluefin tuna in Japan.
Fresh wild from the Sea of Japan
From fall to winter, wild young bluefin tuna, ‘めじまぐろ, meji maguro’ swims up along the Japan sea coast to the north. They are caught by net and when the catch is good, the price is reasonable and great chance to try wild bluefin tuna.

#4 Southern bluefin tuna ((インド)まぐろ, minami or indo maguro, Thunnus Haccoyii) is an expensive tuna, farmed in Australia. More than 90 percent of harvest goes to Japan. It tastes similar to Northern bluefin tuna, is fatty but has a bit of acidity. It is less expensive than Northern bluefin tuna, you can buy akami (lean meat), chutoro (medium fatty tuna), or ootoro (fatty belly tuna). Personally I prefer Southern bluefin to Northern bluefin, especially when it is seared outside. The acidity turns to sweet.
Frozen farmed from Australia
Available all year long, most of revolving (kaitenzushi) sushi restaurants in Japan use this for maguro for chutoro or ootoro. At the supermarket, you can identify this with the sign of ‘インドマグロ or 南マグロ’(Indo maguro or minimi maguro, Southern bluefin tuna) ’解凍’ (kaito, defrosted) and ’養殖’ (youshoku, farmed). You have choices of ‘赤身’ (akami, red lean meat), ‘中トロ’ (chutoro, red and pink gradational meat).
'大トロ’ (ootoro, white pinkish meat from belly) is usually separated and sold to sushi restaurants so that it is difficult to find in the super market
Fresh farmed from Australia
Season in the summer time, available from June to August. Air shipped to Japan. Lots of sushi chain restaurants do the tuna promotion. At the supermarket, you can identify this with the sign of ‘インドマグロor南マグロ’(indo maguro or minimi maguro, southern bluefin tuna) ’’ (Nama, fresh) and ’養殖’ (Youshyoku, farmed). You have choices of ‘赤身’ (Akami, red lean meat), ‘中トロ’ (Chuoro, red and pink gradational meat) and '大トロ’ (Otoro, white pinkish meat from belly).



#5 albacore tuna has white pinkish color lean meat and is used mostly for canned tuna due to its quick spoilage. The canned tuna in Japan is called sea chicken. For sashimi use, you can find super-frozen tuna (SF tuna) for all year long, and fresh tuna in the spring. Fresh tuna has less fat than SF tuna. This is because of the harvest points. SF tuna is mostly harvested from cold waters north of Canada, and the fresh fish is from warm waters in the south Pacific Ocean.
Frozen wild from Canada
Available all year long, most of revolving sushi restaurants in Japan use this for トロビンチョウ (torobincho , fatty albacore), At the supermarket, you can identify this with the sign of ‘トロビンチョウ’ (torobinchou, fatty albacore) ’解凍’ (kaitou, defrosted) .
Frozen wild from Pacific
Available all year long, most of revolving sushi restaurants in Japan use this for ビンチョウ (binchou , albacore). At the supermarket, you can identify this with the sign of ‘びんちょう’ (torobinchou, albacore) ’解凍’ (kaitou, defrosted) .
Fresh wild from Pacific
Season is in the summer time, available from May to Nov. At the supermarket, you can identify this with the sign of ‘ビンチョウ’ (vinchou, albacore) ’’ (nama, fresh) .



Tuna Bak Kut Teh Soup (inspired from Singaporean cuisine)



These pictures are bigeye tuna (bachi maguro in Japanese), which I bought at out local supermarket in Tokyo. Can you see the difference between this and regular tuna? I bet you have never seen this in your supermarket outside of Japan. The package consists from only blood meat with bones and the sinew meat, that is unsuitable for sashimi, but good for cooking. We usually call it ‘ara’ in Japan. For instance if it is tuna, we call it ‘maguro no ara’. Ara can be head, collar backbone, or trimmed meat, and is good for grilling, in soups, or simmered in a sweet soy broth for Tsukudani 佃煮. 

I made Tuna Bak Kut Teh Soup with this tuna after living in Singapore for nearly two years. Bak Kut Teh is a Singapore local food, flavorful soup with pork rib. I used tuna instead of pork because I wanted to give my wife and 2 year-old son more iron in their diet. I cooked it in a high pressure cooker to make the tuna soft like fatty pork rib which is what Bak Kut Teh is traditionally made with.

·    Tuna ara (Maguro no ara) 1 pack *cut into a bite size then put in the boiled water for 20 seconds to clean.
·      

A
 
2 whole onions, cut in half
·      1 garlic bulb, no need to peel the skin
·       2 liters water  
·       Bak Kut Teh mixed herbs and spices 1 satchet *Eu Yan Sang brand

·      

B
 
Salt
·       Soy sauce
·       Black pepper



How to cook
Put the tuna ara, onion, garlic, water, and Bak Kut Teh mix in a high pressure pot and cook for 30 mints on low heat. Season to taste with salt, soy sauce, and black pepper.



The tuna went soft and was good but something was missing compared to Bak Kut Teh.
I used bigeye tuna which is lean red meat, so that if I could used farmed fatty bluefin tuna, it would have been better.







Saturday, December 1, 2012

December Seasonal Japanese Seafood


ankimo
ankimo
asari pasta
asari pasta
buri kamayaki
buri kamayaki
Winter has arrived in Tokyo. The waters surrounding the island nation are cold in most parts of the country and the fish are rich with fat. At the moment Shinji, my husband who is a fishmonger, is crazy about wild buri (yellowtail) from Hokkaido. We look for the kama (collar) of the buri and other larger fish to salt and grill. He’s also excited as up until now the monkfish in the market has been imported but now that it’s cold the monkfish is domestic and he loves to make ankimo (monkfish liver). It’s often called “foie gras of the sea”. And while the texture and appearance is similar to foie gras it’s not as rich in fat. We also love kinmedai as nitsuke, simply simmered in a soy and saké broth with a bit of ginger. As for clams, we love asari in pasta and shijimi for miso soup.
Akagarei – 赤鰈 flathead flounder (Hippoglossoides dubius)
Amadai – 赤甘鯛 tilefish (Branchiostegus japonicus)
Ankou – 鮟鱇 monkfish (Lophiomus setigerus)
Asari – 浅利 littleneck clams (Ruditapes philippinarum)
Bora – 鯔 flathead gray mullet (Mugil cephalus cephalus)
Buri – 鰤 Japanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Fugu – 河豚 blowfish or puffer fish (Takifugu porphyreus)
Hata Hata – 鰰 sailfin sandfish (Arctoscopus japonicus)
Hirame – 鮃  olive flounder (Paralichthys olivaceus)
Honmaguro – 本鮪 bluefin tuna (Thunus thynnus)
Houbou – 魴 gurnard (Chelidonichthys spinosus)
Hoya – 海鞘 sea squirt (Halocynthia roretzi)
Inada –  イナダ young Japanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Kaki – 牡蠣 oyster (Crassostrea gigas)
Kanburi – 寒鰤 Japanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Kawahagi – 皮剥 thread-sail filefish (Stephanolepis cirrhifer)
Kinki – 喜知次 thornhead (Sebastolobus macrochir)
Kinme – 金目 splendid alfonsino (Beryx splendens)
Kurumaebi – 車海老 Japanese tiger prawn (Penaeus (Melicertus) japonicus)
Madara – 真鱈 Pacific cod (Gadus macrocephalus)
Makarei – 真鰈 littlemouth flounder (Pleuronectes yokohamae)
Managatsuo – 真名鰹 silver pomfret (Pampus punctatissimus)
Madara shirako – 白子 milt from Pacific cod
Mebaru – 目張 rockfish (Sebastes inermis)
Meji maguro – young maguro
Mizudako – 水蛸 North Pacific giant octopus (Octopus dofleini)
Mutsu – むつ gnomefish (Scombrops boops)
Namako – 生子 sea cucumber (Stichopus japonica)
Nametagarei – 婆鰈 slime flounder (MIicrostomus achne)
Saba – 鯖  Pacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)
Sakuraebi – 桜蝦  sakura shrimp (Sergia lucens)
Sawara – 鰆  Japanese Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus niphonius)
Sazae – 栄螺 horned turban shell (Turbo cornutus)
Shijimi – 大和蜆 corbicula clams (Corbicula japonica)
Sukesoutara – 介党鱈   Alaska pollack (Theragra chalcogramma)
Suzuki – 鱸  Japanese sea perch (Lateolabrax japonicus)
Uni –  sea urchin
Wakasagi – 若細魚  Japanese smelt (Hypomesus nipponensis)
Warasa – 鰤 Japanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Zuwaigani – 頭矮蟹 snow crab (Chionoecetes opilio)